Why Is My Dryer Not Heating?
by the Berry team · Updated
A dryer that tumbles but will not heat usually has a tripped breaker on an electric model, a blown thermal fuse, or a failed heating element or gas igniter, and most of those parts cost under $100. A clogged vent is often the real reason the part failed, so clean the vent as part of any repair or the new part may fail too.
Likely causes and what they cost to fix
Ordered roughly from most to least common. If you have an electric dryer, check the breaker first.
| Cause | How to recognize it | DIY cost | Pro cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Half of the breaker tripped (electric) | If you have an electric dryer: the drum turns but there is no heat. Electric dryers use a double breaker, and one side can trip alone. | DIY$0 to reset | Pro$100-$250 if the breaker keeps tripping |
| Clogged vent | Loads take much longer, the dryer is hot to the touch, and lint builds up around the door or behind the dryer. | DIY$15-$40 for a brush kit | Pro$100-$200 |
| Blown thermal fuse | The dryer stopped heating suddenly, or on some models will not run at all. Usually caused by overheating from a clogged vent. | DIY$10-$25 for the part | Pro$120-$250 |
| Failed heating element (electric) | Breaker and fuse are fine, and the coil inside the heater box is visibly broken or tests open. | DIY$30-$100 for the part | Pro$150-$350 |
| Failed igniter or gas valve coils (gas) | If you have a gas dryer: you hear clicking, or see the igniter glow, but the burner never lights or lights and goes out. | DIY$20-$60 for an igniter or coil kit | Pro$150-$350 |
| Cycling thermostat, high limit, or control board | Heat cuts out partway through or never starts, after the parts above check out. | DIY$15-$60 for a thermostat | Pro$150-$400 |
Ranges are typical US prices and vary with your region, your home, and the season. A pro quote for your exact job beats any range.
Start with power and the vent
- Check the breaker. If you have an electric dryer, it runs on a double breaker. The motor uses one side and the heater uses both. If one half trips, the drum spins but there is no heat. Switch the breaker fully off, then back on.
- Check the settings. Make sure it is not on air fluff, no heat, or a delicate cycle that barely warms.
- If you have a gas dryer, check the gas. The valve on the supply line behind the dryer should be open, and other gas appliances should be working.
- Clean the lint screen and look in the slot where it sits for buildup.
- Check the vent. With the dryer running, go outside and feel the air at the vent hood. It should be warm and strong. Weak airflow means a clog or a crushed duct.
Why the vent matters so much
A dryer is a heater with a fan, and it needs to push hot, wet air outside. When the vent clogs with lint, crushes behind the dryer, or the outside flap sticks, the heat has nowhere to go. Safety parts like the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat trip to prevent a fire, and the dryer stops heating. Replacing the fuse without clearing the vent usually means it blows again.
- Use rigid or semi-rigid metal duct, not white plastic or foil accordion duct, which crushes and traps lint.
- Keep the run as short and straight as practical.
- Brush the whole vent out once a year, more often with heavy use. Pros typically charge $100-$200.
- Make sure the outside hood flap opens freely and is not blocked by a screen, which traps lint.
Replacing the common parts
Thermal fuses, heating elements, and gas igniters are some of the most common DIY appliance repairs. Unplug the dryer, and if it is gas, close the gas valve. The parts are usually behind the back panel or the front panel. A multimeter tells you which part failed: a good fuse or element shows continuity, a failed one does not. Order the part by the dryer model number, not just the brand.
If you are not comfortable with a meter, or the dryer is gas and you would need to work around the burner and gas valve, a technician visit is reasonable. Dryers are simple machines and usually worth repairing well into their lives. See how long appliances last.
When to call a pro
- You smell gas. Leave the house and call your gas company from outside.
- You smell burning, see scorch marks, or find melted wiring.
- The breaker trips again right after you reset it.
- The thermal fuse blows again soon after replacement, even with a clean vent.
- The vent runs a long way, goes through an attic or roof, or is crushed inside a wall.
What makes it worse if you wait
- A clogged vent is a fire risk, and it gets worse with every load.
- Running loads two or three times to get them dry wastes energy and wears out the motor, belt, and bearings.
- Moist air from a disconnected or crushed vent can cause mold behind the dryer or inside walls.
Common questions
Why does my dryer spin but not heat?
On an electric dryer, half of the double breaker may have tripped, or the thermal fuse or heating element has failed. On a gas dryer, the igniter or gas valve coils are common causes. A clogged vent often causes the failure, so clean it too.
How much does it cost to fix a dryer that is not heating?
Parts like thermal fuses, heating elements, and igniters usually cost $10-$100. With a technician, most no-heat repairs run about $120-$350. Vent cleaning by a pro typically costs $100-$200.
What causes a dryer thermal fuse to blow?
Usually overheating from restricted airflow, most often a clogged or crushed vent. The fuse is a safety device, so clear the vent before replacing it, or the new one may blow too.
How often should a dryer vent be cleaned?
At least once a year for most homes, and more often with heavy laundry use or a long vent run. Clean the lint screen every load.
Not sure that's your problem? Snap a photo and Berry will tell you what it is and what it should cost.
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