Plumbing Maintenance: What to Do, How Often, and What It Costs

by the Berry team · Updated

Plumbing problems are expensive for one reason: water keeps moving. A dripping fitting under a sink can run for months before anyone notices, and by then the bill is for the cabinet, the subfloor, and the mold, not the fitting. Most of the plumbing maintenance worth doing is about catching small leaks early and knowing how to stop water fast when something fails.

This guide covers the plumbing jobs that actually matter, how often to do them, what each costs to do yourself versus hiring a plumber, and what each one prevents. It also links to answers for the problems people search for most, like a leaking water heater, a toilet that keeps running, and low water pressure.

If water is actively leaking right now, skip ahead to what to do in a plumbing emergency.

The plumbing tasks that matter, how often, and what they cost

Ranges are typical US prices. "What it prevents" is why the task is on the list: each one is a small job that heads off a much bigger water damage bill.

Find and test the main water shutoff (once, then yearly)Minutes of uncontrolled water during a burst pipe while someone searches for the valve.DIY$0Pro$150-$500 to replace a stuck or failed valve
Look under sinks and around toilets for leaks (every few months)Slow leaks that rot cabinets and subfloors before they show anywhere else.DIY$0Pro$150-$350 for a typical fitting or supply line repair
Check water pressure (yearly)Pressure high enough to wear out valves, supply lines, and water heaters early.DIY$10-$15 for a gaugePro$300-$700 to replace a pressure reducing valve, if your home has one
Flush the water heater (yearly, if you have a tank)Sediment buildup that makes a tank noisy, less efficient, and shorter lived.DIY$0-$20Pro$100-$250
Check the anode rod (every few years, if you have a tank water heater)The tank corroding from the inside once the rod is used up.DIY$20-$60 for a rodPro$150-$350
Replace washing machine hoses (about every 5 years, if you have a washer)A burst supply hose, which can release a lot of water fast, often while no one is home.DIY$15-$40 for braided hosesPro$100-$200
Test toilets for silent leaks (yearly)A worn flapper quietly wasting water around the clock.DIY$0 for the dye test, $5-$25 for a flapperPro$100-$250
Clean faucet aerators and showerheads (yearly)Weak flow from mineral buildup that people mistake for a pressure problem.DIY$0-$10ProRarely needed
Keep drains clear with strainers (ongoing)Hair and grease clogs that eventually need a snake or a plumber.DIY$5-$20 for strainersPro$150-$350 to clear a clog
Test the sump pump (spring and fall, if you have one)A pump that fails during the storm you needed it for.DIY$0Pro$300-$1,200 to replace a failed pump
Winterize outdoor faucets (fall, in freeze climates)A frozen pipe that splits inside the wall.DIY$0-$15Pro$150-$400 to replace a split faucet
Pump the septic tank (every few years, if you have septic)Solids reaching the drain field, which is far more expensive to fix than the tank.DIYNot a DIY jobPro$300-$700

Ranges are typical US prices and vary with your region, your home, and the season. A pro quote for your exact job beats any range.

What to do in a plumbing emergency

When water is coming from somewhere it should not, the order matters. Stop the water first, then figure out the cause.

  1. Close the nearest shutoff. Toilets and sinks usually have a small valve on the supply line underneath. If you have a tank water heater, there is usually a valve on the cold line at the top.
  2. If that does not work, close the main. The main shutoff is usually where the water line enters the house: in a basement, crawl space, garage, utility closet, or near the water heater. In some homes it is outside near the meter.
  3. Cut power to anything wet. If water is near outlets, an electric water heater, or appliances, turn off those breakers before you stand in it.
  4. Open a faucet on the lowest floor to drain pressure out of the lines, which slows any leak that is still dripping.
  5. Take photos before you clean up, if there is damage you might need for an insurance claim.

The water heater

If you have a tank water heater, it is the plumbing fixture most likely to cause serious water damage when it fails, because it holds a lot of water and usually sits in a closet, basement, or garage where a slow leak goes unnoticed. A yearly flush, a pressure check, and an occasional look at the anode rod are the maintenance that matters. Tank water heaters often last somewhere around 8 to 12 years. Knowing yours is near the end lets you replace it on your schedule instead of after a flood.

Toilets, faucets, and the small leaks that add up

A running toilet or dripping faucet will not flood the house, but they are the leaks people tolerate longest, and the water bill keeps running the whole time. Both are usually cheap parts and a short DIY job. A flapper or fill valve is a few dollars to about $25. A faucet cartridge is often $10-$40.

Drains and clogs

One slow drain is almost always a local clog of hair, soap, or grease close to the fixture, and a plunger or a $5 plastic drain snake often fixes it. Several slow drains at once, gurgling, or water backing up in a tub or floor drain point to a clog farther down the line, which is a job for a plumber with a cable machine or camera.

Go easy on chemical drain cleaners. They can damage some older pipes, they rarely clear a serious clog, and they make the job more hazardous for whoever has to open the line next.

Water pressure and noisy pipes

Pressure problems go both ways. Low pressure is annoying and sometimes points to a failing valve or a hidden leak. High pressure is quiet and does more damage: it wears out supply lines, toilet valves, and water heaters faster. A $10-$15 gauge on an outdoor faucet tells you where you stand. A reading above about 80 psi is a common threshold for calling a plumber.

Basements, crawl spaces, and sump pumps

If your home has a basement or crawl space, groundwater is part of your plumbing picture whether you think of it that way or not. If you have a sump pump, test it in spring and fall by pouring a bucket of water into the pit. If you do not have one and get water after heavy rain, it may be worth asking whether you need one. See sump pump basics.

Freezing weather

If you get hard freezes, frozen pipes are the most expensive plumbing failure on this page. Drain outdoor faucets in fall, insulate pipes in unheated spaces, and know what to do the night before a cold snap. See how to winterize outdoor faucets and how to prepare for a hard freeze.

When to do it yourself and when to call a plumber

  • Do it yourself. Flappers and fill valves, faucet cartridges and aerators, plunging and hand-snaking a single drain, replacing washing machine hoses, flushing a water heater, and testing a sump pump.

  • Probably hire it. Replacing a shutoff valve that will not seal, anode rods on a tank that has never been opened, clogs that come back after you clear them, and anything where you would need to cut or solder pipe.

  • Always hire it. Gas lines and gas water heaters, main sewer line clogs, replacing a water heater, pressure reducing valves, and any leak inside a wall or ceiling.

Plumbers often charge a service call fee just to show up, commonly somewhere around $75-$200, and emergency or after-hours rates run higher. That is one more reason to handle small leaks during business hours, before they become emergencies.

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Common questions

What plumbing maintenance should be done every year?

Once a year, test your main water shutoff, check water pressure with a gauge, flush a tank water heater if you have one, test toilets for silent leaks, clean faucet aerators, and look under every sink for drips. Replace washing machine hoses about every five years.

How much does a plumber charge for a service call?

Many plumbers charge a service or trip fee, commonly around $75-$200, plus the repair itself. Simple repairs like a supply line or toilet valve often land around $150-$350 total. Nights, weekends, and emergencies cost more.

How do I find my main water shutoff valve?

Follow the water line where it enters the house. It is usually in a basement, crawl space, garage, utility closet, or near the water heater. In some homes, especially in warmer climates, it is outside near the water meter or in a box at the curb.

What is a normal household water pressure?

A common target range is about 40 to 80 psi. Below that, fixtures feel weak. Above about 80 psi, many plumbers recommend a pressure reducing valve, because high pressure wears out pipes, valves, and appliances faster.

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