Why Is My Water Pressure Low?
by the Berry team · Updated
If low pressure is at one faucet or shower, the cause is usually a clogged aerator, showerhead, or cartridge, which costs little or nothing to fix. If it is the whole house, the likely causes are a partly closed shutoff valve, a failing pressure reducing valve, a hidden leak, or an issue on the supply side.
Likely causes and what they cost to fix
Ordered roughly from most to least common. Start by figuring out whether the problem is at one fixture, hot water only, or the whole house, since that rules out most of this list.
| Cause | How to recognize it | DIY cost | Pro cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Clogged aerator or showerhead | Weak flow at one faucet or shower while the rest of the house is fine. Common with hard water. | DIY$0-$30 | ProRarely needed |
| Worn or clogged faucet cartridge | One faucet is weak even with the aerator removed, sometimes on hot or cold only. | DIY$15-$60 for a cartridge | Pro$150-$300 |
| Partly closed shutoff valve | Whole-house pressure dropped after recent plumbing work, or one fixture is weak and its stop valve is not fully open. | DIY$0 | Pro$100-$200 if a valve needs replacing |
| Failing pressure reducing valve (if your home has one) | Whole-house pressure that is low or that swings up and down. The valve is usually near where the main line enters the house. | DIYAdjusting it is free; replacing it is not a beginner job | Pro$300-$700 to replace |
| Water heater issue | Low pressure on hot water only, at every faucet. Often sediment or a partly closed valve at the water heater. | DIY$0-$20 to flush (if you have a tank) | Pro$100-$250 |
| Hidden leak | Pressure dropped and the water bill went up, or the meter moves with everything turned off. | DIY$0 to check the meter | Pro$150-$500 to find and repair a simple leak; more if it is under a slab |
| Pressure tank or switch problem (if you are on a well) | Pressure that pulses, fades, or the pump cycles on and off rapidly. | DIY$0 to check tank air pressure; $20-$50 for a switch | Pro$150-$400 for a switch; $500-$1,500 for a pressure tank installed |
| Old galvanized pipes | Gradual pressure loss over years in an older home, often with rusty water at first draw. | DIYNot a DIY job | ProOften $4,000-$15,000 for a whole-house repipe |
Ranges are typical US prices and vary with your region, your home, and the season. A pro quote for your exact job beats any range.
Narrow it down first
Where the low pressure shows up tells you most of what you need to know. Check a few faucets around the house before you start taking anything apart.
One faucet or shower only. The problem is at that fixture: its aerator, showerhead, cartridge, or the small stop valve under the sink. This is the most common case and usually the cheapest.
Hot water only, everywhere. Look at the water heater. A partly closed valve on its supply line or sediment buildup in a tank can restrict hot water flow. If you have a tankless unit, scale inside it can do the same.
The whole house, hot and cold. Look at the main shutoff valve, the pressure reducing valve if your home has one, and the water meter. Ask a neighbor whether their pressure dropped too. If it did, the cause may be on the utility side.
It comes and goes. Pressure that dips when another fixture runs is often undersized or aging pipes. Pressure that pulses on a well system usually points to the pressure tank or switch.
How to test your water pressure
A screw-on pressure gauge costs about $10-$15 at a hardware store. Thread it onto an outdoor faucet or the washing machine hookup, make sure no other water is running, and open the faucet fully.
- Roughly 40 to 80 psi is a commonly cited normal range for homes.
- Below about 40 psi tends to feel weak, especially upstairs or with two fixtures running.
- Above about 80 psi is worth talking to a plumber about, even if the pressure feels great. High pressure is hard on water heaters, toilet valves, and supply lines, and it is a common cause of banging pipes.
If you are on a well, the gauge on or near the pressure tank shows the same thing. Readings that climb and fall in a tight cycle every few seconds are a sign the pressure tank is not working right.
Fixes you can do yourself
Clean the aerator. Unscrew the tip of the faucet (wrap it in a rag if you need pliers), rinse out any grit, and soak scale off in white vinegar for an hour. Replacements cost a few dollars if it is damaged.
Soak or replace the showerhead. Mineral deposits block the small holes. Soak it in vinegar overnight, or tie a bag of vinegar around it. Some showerheads also have a flow restrictor that can clog.
Open the valves fully. Check the stop valves under the sink, the valve on the water heater supply, and the main shutoff. Turn each fully open, then back off a quarter turn so it does not stick.
Check the meter for a leak. Turn off every faucet and appliance that uses water, then watch the meter for 15 to 30 minutes. If it moves, water is going somewhere. A running toilet is the most common culprit, so check those first.
Flush the water heater (if you have a tank). If the problem is hot water only, draining a few gallons can clear sediment near the outlet.
When to call a pro
- Whole-house pressure is low and the valves are open, especially if your home has a pressure reducing valve that may be failing.
- The meter shows water moving with everything off and you cannot find the leak.
- Pressure has slowly dropped for years in an older home, which can point to corroded galvanized pipes.
- You are on a well and the pump is short-cycling or the pressure tank gauge swings rapidly.
- Pressure tests above about 80 psi.
What makes it worse if you wait
- A hidden leak that causes low pressure keeps running up the water bill and can soak framing, flooring, or a slab.
- A pump that short-cycles on a well wears out much faster than one that runs normally.
- A failing pressure reducing valve can fail open, sending high pressure to every fixture and appliance in the house.
- Corroding pipes do not recover. Pressure loss from them only gets worse.
Common questions
Why is my water pressure suddenly low in the whole house?
Check whether the main shutoff valve was partly closed during recent work, then ask a neighbor if their pressure dropped too. If it is only your house, a failing pressure reducing valve, a leak, or a problem with your well system if you have one are the usual causes.
Why is only my hot water pressure low?
If pressure is low on hot water at every faucet, the cause is usually at the water heater: a partly closed valve, sediment in a tank, or scale in a tankless unit. If it is hot water at one faucet only, the faucet cartridge is the more likely culprit.
What is normal water pressure for a house?
Roughly 40 to 80 psi is a commonly cited normal range. You can check it with an inexpensive gauge that screws onto an outdoor faucet. Below 40 tends to feel weak, and above 80 is hard on plumbing.
How much does it cost to fix low water pressure?
Cleaning an aerator or showerhead costs almost nothing. Replacing a faucet cartridge is typically $15-$60 in parts or $150-$300 with a plumber. Replacing a pressure reducing valve often runs $300-$700. Repiping an older home is a much bigger job that needs a quote.
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Keep reading
- Why Do My Pipes Bang or Knock When I Turn Off the Water?Why pipes bang, knock, or tick when water shuts off or heats up, what water hammer is, and what each fix costs DIY vs pro.
- How to Fix a Dripping Faucet (and What It Costs)Why a faucet drips, how to tell which type you have, the part that usually fixes it, and what a repair or new faucet costs DIY vs pro.
- Why Does My Toilet Keep Running?Why a toilet keeps running or refills on its own, how to find the cause in five minutes, and what each fix costs DIY vs hiring a plumber.
- Plumbing Maintenance: What to Do, How Often, and What It CostsThe full plumbing & water guide hub.