How to Fix a Dripping Faucet (and What It Costs)

A dripping faucet almost always means a worn internal part: a cartridge, a rubber washer, an O-ring, or the small seats and springs inside, depending on the type of faucet. Replacing that part is usually a $5-$50 DIY repair, and replacing the whole faucet only makes sense if it is old, corroded, or the parts are hard to find.

First, shut off the water

Look under the sink for the two small shutoff valves on the hot and cold supply lines. Turn them clockwise until they stop, then open the faucet to drain what is left in the lines. If the valves will not turn, are crusted over, or start leaking when you touch them, use your main water shutoff instead and consider having those valves replaced while you are at it.

How to tell which faucet you have

Faucets look different on the outside, but there are four common designs inside. Knowing yours tells you what part to buy.

• Compression. Two handles, and you turn each one several full turns and snug it down to stop the water. These are older and use rubber washers that wear out. The cheapest faucet to repair.

• Cartridge. One or two handles that turn smoothly with no tightening at the end. Inside is a plastic or brass cartridge you pull out and replace as a unit.

• Ceramic disc. Usually one handle that lifts and turns over a wide cylinder. Two ceramic discs inside control the water. Very durable; drips often come from the rubber seals at the bottom of the disc cylinder.

• Ball. One handle on a rounded cap that rotates in every direction, common on older kitchen faucets. Uses a ball, small rubber seats, and springs, all sold together in a repair kit.

The easiest way to be sure is to look up the faucet brand, usually printed on the handle, base, or escutcheon plate, and find the model online. Take the old part to the store with you either way. Cartridges look similar across brands but rarely fit each other.

How to fix it

1. Remove the handle. Pry off the decorative cap with a thin flat screwdriver, then unscrew the handle screw. Some handles use a small hex screw on the side instead.
2. Take out the internal part. Unscrew the retaining nut or clip and pull out the cartridge, stem, or ball assembly. Note the order and direction of everything as it comes out, or take a photo.
3. Replace the worn parts. Swap the cartridge, the washer and screw, the seats and springs, or the O-rings, depending on your faucet. A thin coat of plumber's grease on new O-rings helps them seal and slide in.
4. Reassemble and test. Put everything back in reverse order, open the shutoff valves slowly, and run the faucet for a minute to clear air.

If a compression faucet still drips after a new washer, the valve seat underneath may be worn or rough. A seat wrench removes replaceable seats, and a seat dressing tool can smooth ones that are not removable.

Repair or replace the faucet?

Repair if the faucet is in good shape and you can find the part. Replace it if the body is corroded or cracked, the finish is failing, the brand is hard to find parts for, or you have already replaced the same part more than once. If you are replacing it, a mid-range faucet from a major brand usually has easier-to-find parts later.

If you have hard water, the life of cartridges and seals is often shorter, and an aerator clogged with mineral scale can cause sputtering or low flow. See low water pressure if the faucet also runs weakly.